Hi there! Thank you for reading this blog journal/post about my Fulbright Fellowship to Senegal, Africa through the US State Department. All opinions are my own and do not reflect those of the Fulbright programs, US State Department, or my current/past/future places of employment.
All entries are highlighted in YELLOW.
Entries of more thoughtful depth and insight are highlighted in BLUE. (don't skip these!)
Please also note the dates of entries as some were written many months before the trip.
My trip videos have ALL my photos and videos in them and the links are close below. (don't skip these either!)
Thanks for reading!
~A
Fulbright Background:
What is a Fulbright TGC (Teachers for Global Classrooms) Fellowship Award?
Fulbright awards are some of the most prestigious awards a teacher can get in their career--often the pinnacle of many teachers' careers. Fellows receive online professional development, attend a symposium in Washington DC (our cohort didn't due to COVID), create a Capstone Project which is a guide or resource for their school, and then get to travel to another country during their IFE (International Field Experience). To read more about what a Fulbright TGC Fellow does and receives, click here: https://www.fulbrightteacherexchanges.org/programs/tgc/what-participants-do/
Major Trip Videos:
1. The first few days in Dakar: https://youtu.be/fi27sjoHcXw
2. Tambacounda Day 1: https://youtu.be/_uYVg3THvLs
3. Tambacounda week: https://youtu.be/VzC8RtBWJFY
4. The last few days: https://youtu.be/IG1ATAUO_t4
5. Schools in Senegal: (videos by my friend Clarice)
6. The Gambia: https://youtu.be/wXv8wuUy1wI
Entry 1: December 2022
Entry 2: April 17, 2023
Entry 3: April 18, 2023
Imagine in the depths of your past you receive a gift. You don't know what the gift is or how it will come to fruition. You just know it for what it is in the day that you're living in.
In my 30s I received the gift of several friendships: Cindy, Aeriele, and Cristina.
In 2015, one of the best years of my life, my travel buddy Kristy and I applied for a grant that Cindy had told us about. Upon the winning of this grant, we ventured to 10 countries and over 30 Holocaust locations, and we did all of this in 28 days. When we returned, we were sent to a conference in DC to meet the other grant recipients and learn about their trips. It was at this conference where Aeriele and Cristina first told me about the Fulbright for Teachers and the various programs Fulbright offered. Interestingly enough, in 2013 I believe it was also Cindy, or possibly my friend Casey D. who had told me about all of the Fulbright programs. In 2014, I decided to apply for my first Fulbright, albeit it was one that wasn't related to teaching. Over the course of several months I designed a project, confirmed sponsors, and applied. Several months later my application was rejected. So when Aeriele and Cristina brought up the Fulbright TGC and other teacher travel options, I was hooked. I need to apply THIS way, I thought.
As far as my memory serves me, I applied for my first teacher Fulbright in 2016. What you may not know is that during that year I was extremely depressed and suicidal. I didn't want to live. However, in that year of enormous emotional pain, distress, tears, and sadness, I still was functioning: I ran my first marathon, I traveled to Colorado and the Dominican Republic and Upstate NY, and I graduated from MSU with my second masters with a 4.0.
From that year forward I received "I'm sorry; you didn't get a Fulbright" emails. However for the 2017-2018 Fulbright, I was picked as an alternate. Though not an official winner, this told me that someday would be MY day, so I didn't give up.
My aunt and cousin were two people (of the many) who told me that someday I would be a Fulbright Fellow. My cousin kept telling me, you'll get it! My aunt gave me a magnet that said "A loser is just a winner who tried one more time."
Most of you already know this, but there is NO ONE more proud of myself than me. Thanks for reading and I can't wait to share this trip with you all!
Entry 4: April 19, 2023
Fulbright is not Chick-fil-a. What I mean by that is that this has been a very long, not efficient process for a trip. Without going into crazy details, I received this award in August of 2021 and am just now traveling. In the fall of 2021 the 70 of us who won the award did an online professional development course, which was excellent. After the course ended I was responsible for creating a capstone project that would be for my school I teach at. I created a website full of resources to help K-12 teachers teach about the 20 some cultures and countries that are represented in our district. From then on, it has been a waiting game. We didn't know when we would be traveling until around December or January of this year. We got our plane tickets in late March This week on Tuesday late evening we all received, at last, our trip itinerary.
There is a group of 14 of us going, and then for a week of the trip 3 of us will be going to a different part of Senegal where it is 115 degrees each day this time of year. Our host in that part is Salamata, and we have already been in contact with her. Clarice and I, one of my partner teachers from the US, raised around $1500 to buy her 300 calculators, rules, protractors, and compasses. I also got her a few tiny gifts from Missouri. Salamata has been nothing but wonderful. She arranged our bus and hotel accommodations and helped us plan the lessons we will teach at her school.
Packing has been a beast with around 200 calculators in my luggage. I've had to parse down my clothing and everything I'm taking. However, after reading the hotel reviews, I will have to remove some more items as I am adding bed sheets and bed bug spray... YIKES!
For this trip I did have to get a yellow fever vax, typhoid vax, and also get on anti-malaria meds. Mosquitos love me, so I also am taking long dresses, long pants, and long sleeve shirts to wear daily. Not my norm! haha.
The good thing is that I packed a week ago and currently I'm just waiting on a sleep sheet to arrive in the mail and for my laundry to be done this eve to throw in a few last minute things. :)
Entry 5: April 21, 2023 Departure Day
Today is the day! My friend Sarah took me to the airport. I flew from SGF to CHI to Brussels to Dakar. I met about half of the team in Chicago, and we ate at Tortas Frontera. I was so excited to connect with almost all the ladies who would be on this trip with me. Such amazing, talented women!
Entry 6: Saturday, April 22, 2023
We arrived late due to an issue over Paris, but arrived safely. The weather here is warm, but not horribly hot. The breeze off of the ocean allows for it to feel nice.
Our accommodations were at the ONOMO Hotel Dakar. The reviews online were shady, but overall, I love this place. Very clean and comfortable. We had a welcome dinner with fresh chicken, fish, and the best veggies I've ever had.
I did a small run inside the hotel courtyard around the pool while waiting for team member Clarice to arrive from Madrid. She arrived around 10 pm.
Entry 7: Sunday, April 23, 2023
Before breakfast, Luke, Anne-Michele, and I ran to the ocean and back, then lifted weights. Breakfast was very European: bread, meats and cheese, granola, fruit, and chicken and potatoes. I had a combo of all. lol.
We started the day in a training session under Mouhamadou Sadibou Diouf & Ousmane BA,
In-Country Consultants from Senegal. Both men are very kind. We got our Fulbright pins and did a fun icebreaker game.
Our session was about the foundations of the Senegalese Education System. Education in Senegal isn't mandatory. There is a national curriculum everyone follows. Teachers make $8000USD a year and 20% of teachers are women. There are around 92K teachers. School does cost money to attend, but is a low fee to do so. English is introduced to students in middle school, as French is the official language. Some schools are named after MLK Jr. and JFK. Principals have no training. Within 5 years, the education department (called the ministry of education) wants to start having local languages at schools, and they also want a shift to STEM education.
There are thousands of makeshift schools, similar to home schools, but more like a place where people will create a school in a place where there isn't one. Senegal is also trying to get more students to attend university in Senegal as opposed to France, which is 3x the cost.
We then learned about school lunch/dinner. Due to
poverty, meals at school actually attract students to schools. Schools
use meals to also teach to share food. There is no feeding/food policy,
so there are definitely issues.
There are a lot of English
clubs in Senegal to learn how to effectively learn to speak publicly.
They also use song and drum/beats to teach English more quickly and make
learning fun.
After a coffee/snack break, we had our second
training session: Introduction to the Senegalese History and Culture
given to us by Ousmane BA.
Senegal has been a country since 1960, when it gained freedom from France via agreements instead of a war. France, however, still has a huge hold on the country as it's the number one place the Senegalese get their imports from. French is also the main language, though most students arrive to school as kids speaking their indigenous languages such as Wolof. All greetings are also done in Wolof.
One of our facilitators, Ousmane, taught us some phrases
and he teaches Wolof on the side. He also has created a Wolof-English
dictionary that has been used by the Peace Corps.
We learned
some Wolof and a traditional dance, learned about the founding and
colonization of Senegal, learned about its leaders past and present, and
we learned some Wolof. I'm not good at learning any language, so this
was tough for me!
During the afternoon we took our charter bus to
the ferry to visit Gorée Island, the main location of the slave trade
in Senegal. I had a difficult time wrapping my head around the
atrocities that occurred at The House of Slaves and the Door of No
Return. Internalizing this as a white person while being around
Senegalese people and African Americans is a perspective not easily
forgotten. One group member noted the heavy energy in the place: you can
feel it. Almost all of the African Americans in our group were in
tears.
Goree was once a place where the enslaved were brought, separated from their families, then regrouped by gender and/or age. It is believed that 1 out of every 4 children died on the island and didn't make it on a ship. The Door of No Return was more than likely used for the Africans to leave the island and get directly on a boat. Before they got on the boat, the slave building had different rooms/cells where the people would wait.
My friend Clarice explained that slavery was
an old African custom but that the cruel form was invented by the
British and carried out more by other Europeans and Americans. African
slavery was more of a servant-master role that wasn't dehumanizing. This
servant would likely live in the house and eat with you. You also may
not have been a slave for life.
Goree, however, is more than one building. Being a UNESCO site, the village is strangely beautiful: colorful houses and buildings, beautiful Baobab trees, and a long path lined with art that leads to a statute at the top of the island. We walked to the top and learned about Senegal being worried about Hitler invading. We went to a sand art demonstration where I purchased two works of art. The artists there are trained for up to 3 years before they're allowed to create and sell their art, or at least that is what our tour guide told us.
We got back on the ferry late, so we went to dinner late at La Terrasse Terroubi Corniche Ouest Boulevard Martin Luther King. It was a very bougie hotel and restaurant. I looked up and saw the rooms there start at $300USD a night and they had a 6 lane lighted pool and private beach. I ate chicken that was average in taste and supposedly cassava that tasted more like quinoa.
Entry 8: Monday, April 24, 2023
This morning we learned about how the Senegalese families are structured and what is valued in culture. Their key values are noted below. Families are very large and focused on sharing, respecting elders, helping others. It was interesting comparing and contrasting cultures and the ways that teenagers might act in American vs. Senegalese culture.
Kolere - I will not forget what you have done for me for life, similar to loyalty
Mun - patience, accepting suffering
Sag - I have nothing, I'm poor, but if you see me you will not know I'm poor because I will dress well and act respectful
Yitte - Taking time, even if just a minute, to show you I care and value you
Maslaa - you're a victim of something and you can punish and have the power to do something but you negotiate instead
Sutura - discretion and decency
Teranga - Hospitality
Kersa - respect for self and others
After this, we loaded up to attend the US Embassy in Dakar where we were given a welcome, then a health and safety briefing. Entering the Embassy takes a lot of time. They scan everything and make you check in all electronic devices and your passports. We were met by diplomats who told us about what the Embassy does and how they forge local relationships, a guy we dubbed Safety Mike who told us how not to die, and by an Asian McDreamy doctor with shoulder length wavy-hair who told us what could make us sick. We also learned that Senegal is strong in GDP and clean energy, but is low on the human development scale.
Chez KATIA, Almady route de NGOR Mansour SY Middle School
Location: Médina/Fann
Facilitator: The Principal, Mr. Ousmane Diakhate
I was ultimately shocked by the first school and its condition. We sat in a music class where kids were learning beats. Everything was done in French and on a blackboard. The class was full, many of the seats were broken. I sent some photos to my classes back in the states and my student teacher let me know that the students were shocked.
That evening we went to Aby's Garden for dinner and to a grocery store. Clarice and I split pizza, and were ultimately disappointed by the taste and that it didn't actually have Shawarma on it.
Entry 9: Tuesday, April 25, 2023
School Visit: Alie Codou NDIAYE Primary School
Location: Medina, Dakar
Facilitator: The Director, Mr. Omar DIAGNE
This morning we made a visit to an primary school, and I felt more prepared for what to expect. A few of us sat in a classroom where we were called upon to give a quick 10 minute mini lesson about English greetings. Luckily for us we had Jalila with us and she explained what we were doing in French. I was in charge of teaching Good Morning.
We then watched the kids finish a PE class before sitting to talk with the teachers and learn about their school.
After that we had lunch and went to the WARC, West African Research Center, to listen to Mrs. Mariane Yade & Pr. Ousmane Sene, but mostly Ousmane Sene, talk about whatever he wanted to. I was hoping to hear him discuss literature, as he is known to be an expert in it, but he went off on many side tangents.
After this we headed to the Black Civilization Museum, where we had a small tour that several of us broke away from to explore. I found the museum to be a beautiful building but lacking in a lot of exhibits. I did enjoy the art floor, however.
Entry 10: Wednesday, April 26, 2023
This morning we attended the FASTEF National Teacher Training School, where teachers train for several years in Dakar. We met with Dr Baidy DIA, Dean of EFL and several others. My favorite presenter of the morning was a young man in charge of an English club. He talked for a while, then his students stood up from the back and gave a compelling skit about the importance of English and language learning. It was even more powerful because a female student was the one who started it.
Maurice Delafosse High School, Mr. Abdoulaye DIOUF, Principal
Awesome morning and afternoon at the training center where people become teachers. We then went to our first high school. There is only ONE female teacher in the English department. In our class we attended, there was one head teacher but 4 other teachers observing. The teachers got into a pedagogical debate in front of the students. I wanted to join mostly because I didn’t agree with the ways the writing was being taught. So I talked myself off my ledge by walking around and helping various students. The final kid, one next to me in the photo spoke VERY good English and wants to study in the states. I told her she looks just like a young Aliyah Boston. She told me the girls were all staring at me not because of my white skin but because of my short hair, but she was impressed I cut it myself. Lol.
That evening we went to the market to purchase fabric and take it to a tailor. I picked out a blue for me and something for my mom, but used Rebecca's measurements for my mom's dress. We then went to dinner. Market name: Soumbedioune Market. Dinner Location: La Terrasse Terroubi
“The Atlantic Ocean divides us, but everything else unites us.” - Mouhamadou
Entry 11: Thursday, April 27, 2023
Today we had a 9 hour journey from Dakar to Tambacounda. It was long and boring, but we did get to stop and eat at Djolof (similar to a KFC, only BETTER). Upon arrival we met Salamata and her husband and baby. We gave her gifts and ate dinner. Her husband loves saying my name very loudly and forcefully. LOL. I ate kebabs, rice, and drank bissop.
Entry 12: Friday, April 28, 2023
Video of this day:
They have school here on Saturdays, so we went back to school, where they were finishing up the cultural festival. Today I was prepared for the heat with extra water, a cooling towel, and extra electrolytes. The morning started with a girls' dance troupe and drumming corps. It was phenomenal. After that, there were some other skits, dances, and awards. There were also MANY people standing up and giving speeches, thanks, and even a lesson. Overall, this day wasn't as interesting as the day before, and I spent a lot of time inside trying to cool off. After the festival we went back to Salamata's house for lunch and a nap. We sat in a more air conditioned room and Jalila taught the kids some words in English and some songs like Head and Shoulders Knees and Toes.
Entry 14: Sunday, April 30, 2023
Entry 15: Monday, May 1, 2023
We went to the market with Salamata and her husband and spent most of the day at our pool after we had a lunch of fish and rice. 
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| Fun things you can buy in the market! haha. |
Entry 16: Tuesday, May 2, 2023
BUT not without all the young men teachers passing my bottle around to make sure it wasn’t alcohol. Sali said one of them said “I think this is some health drink.”
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| This is the oldest Nene. She latched on to me and always wanted to hold my hand on the way home from school. Def my fav! |
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| Best meal of my ENTIRE trip. |
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| Baby Nene and her brother Baba. |
Entry 17: Wednesday, May 3, 2023
Today we were back in Kothiary for our final day. We got to classes as early as possible so that we could give our final lessons to students. We began with a lesson from Clarice, my friend from Philly, who did a lesson in English with her postcards. She had her students talk about themselves. The kids in Kothiary got postcards to write letters back to her students. After this we had a Q and A session. Talk about DEPTH. These kids wanted to know all sorts of things. I was actually put on the spot twice. One: I was asked how I supported BLM. Two: I was asked why I thought racism was so present in the USA. Since Clarice and Jalila are African-American, I was def a person to ask questions like this to! Sali told her students (in French) that I was one of the good guys and to not worry: I'm not racist. LOL. I'm glad she said that.
At the house we said goodbye to everyone and also got to get Henna on our hands and feet.
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| The kids loved my hair... lol |
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| Adawa. She didn't smile. |
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| This teenager wanted TONS of photos with me. LOL |
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| The guard who drank my Liquid IV electrolytes... |
Entry 18: Thursday, May 4, 2023
It was another LONG 8 hours back to Dakar, which everyone slept except me and the driver. I did clock him at 86mph at one point, though most of the time he was trying to pass trucks that were only going 40mph. A few hours in the AC quit, but he stopped in Kaolack where we used the restroom in a Gambian woman's house and played soccer with some boys on the street. They immediately talked to me and asked me about playing sports. I didn't even have a uniform or kit on! I had a dress on. I did show them some basketball moves, though, which entertained them for a bit.
After arriving back at the hotel, I was put in a room with NO AC before we headed out to the African Monument of Renaissance, the largest monument in the country, and it was built by N. Korea.
I also wrote this:
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| The principal at Kothiary gave us all fabric as a gift. |
Entry 19: Friday, May 5, 2023
This morning we spent debriefing our past 2 weeks as a group. It was an emotional time of sharing, and I made the group cry. After the day was over, I did write this reflection, which I believe to be the most important reflection of my trip:
West African Drumming & Dance – Senegalese TAM-TAM - We had a drum and dance group come to our hotel and teach us dancing. SO FUN!
Dinner Location: Jet Café, Cor des Almadies
Tonight we ate at a bougie beach restaurant, and I took glamor shots of everyone who wanted a photo in their African dresses and tailored attire.
My St. Lucian friend said the same sort of thing and invited our small group to St. Lucia Carnival 2024. Let’s just say I’m clearing off my calendar NOW! 
Entry 20: Saturday, May 6, 2023
We spent the morning leisurely getting ready for the day and packing up for our flights. Our morning activity was a trip to an orphanage, which was less sad than I thought it might be. The one we went to is focused on reuniting kids with parents, as most of the kids there are "lost" kids. There was one young mother there with her baby, as her parents had disowned her and kicked her out of the house. As far as we were told, these children were not adoptable. We had fun playing soccer and basketball with some of the kids.
After that, we headed to our final lunch. I got a taxi back to the hotel and then to the airport to head to The Gambia.
Entry 21: Sunday, May 7, 2023
SO over them. 
and that’s exactly what I said. Worked like a charm! Lil’ boy was speechless. Lol. 
Entry 22: Monday, May 8, 2023
Surfed once again. Sea sick once again. I did get up but the waves were VERY rough even for the seasoned surfers I was with. Still happy to enjoy the moment at this cool dive bar and surf village.
After I ate, I texted Jalila and joined her and Ousmane and a friend by taking a boat to the tiny, yet picturesque N'gor Island. The island is super small and full of art. I rented a paddle board and enjoyed the water.
Entry 23: Tuesday, May 9, 2023 and Wednesday May 10
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